Interview舟山瑛美｜自分らしく纏うことを讃える。FETICOが描く“意思あるエレガンス”

—— On February 9, ahead of Rakuten Fashion Week, FETICO presented its Fall/Winter 2026–27 collection in a runway show format. This season’s theme was “The Contours of Grace.” Were there any new challenges you embraced, or decisions you made differently from before?

This collection was inspired by the style and spirit of pioneering women from the 1920s and 1930s who forged their own paths in life through sheer determination. The three women who served as my muses were the painter Vanessa Bell, Lee Miller—who transitioned from model to war photographer—and Gabrielle Chanel, who led women toward freedom.

It has been five years since I launched the brand, and as I have grown older and gained experience myself, I have come to feel a desire to portray a more mature vision of womanhood. While preserving the essence of FETICO, I wanted to evolve the garments into pieces that feel more real—clothes that sophisticated, grown women would choose for themselves. That was the challenge I embraced this season.

—— FETICO’s garments have always carried a sense of “specialness,” almost as if they belong to another world. With this collection, have they been updated to sit closer to the everyday lives of more women?

Yes, that’s true. In the past, I placed great emphasis on the perfection of each product as a standalone piece. This time, in addition to that, I thought deeply about the very act of wearing—the presence of the person who wears it, and how it would actually be styled and lived in.

That said, I also value the sense of uplift that comes from wearing something special. I have never been particularly interested in clothes that look the same on everyone. I am drawn instead to garments whose impression changes depending on the wearer’s body, and to sculptural pieces that enhance the natural curves of a woman’s form. What matters most is that the wearer feels comfortable and confident. These are not clothes created to answer to the male gaze, but garments chosen independently, by women, for themselves.

—— Now that the latest collection show has concluded, how do you feel about the current phase of FETICO as a brand?

Recently, recognition within Japan has gradually expanded, and I feel that people are beginning to hold a clear image of what “FETICO-like” means. I finally sense that the brand is becoming established.

With that momentum, we are now strengthening our approach overseas as the next phase. In Paris, we present samples through a PR agency and participate in group exhibitions, exploring how the brand is received locally. While cherishing our customers in Japan, I do feel that the styles and ideals of womanhood sought abroad can differ slightly. Through ongoing meetings with our overseas team, we are currently exploring FETICO’s vision of femininity from a broader, more global perspective.

 

—— In what ways do you feel that vision of womanhood differs domestically and internationally?

Even when we say “overseas,” sensibilities vary greatly from country to country. For example, in the United States—particularly in Los Angeles—the lingerie-inspired looks that FETICO excels in are received very positively. In Paris, however, more conservative styles are preferred, and some say that more revealing pieces are difficult to incorporate into office wear.

There are certainly national differences, but what I feel even more strongly are differences in personal values. How one wishes to present one’s body, and how one chooses to enjoy fashion through it. I believe there are independent women in every country who make those choices consciously for themselves.

—— FETICO feels like a brand that beautifully draws out qualities such as inner strength, dignity, and suppleness—the inherent beauty within women. In continuing your creative work, have there been things you let go of because they felt “beautiful, but not quite right”?

Even if something appears beautiful, I let it go if its origins are unclear. For instance, with materials, if I cannot trace who made them and how, I find it difficult to place my trust in them. It may be similar to choosing ingredients that are gentle on the body when cooking for oneself.

There are also times when a structurally beautiful choice does not necessarily translate into comfort. Even the use of interfacing can become a point of careful deliberation. A silhouette may look exquisite on a hanger, but if it feels uncomfortable when worn, then it cannot be considered correct. In such cases, I search for the optimal balance between beauty and comfort.

—— The fusion of a classical style that emphasizes the sculptural beauty of the female form with a contemporary sensibility—your creations are often described as “one of a kind.” How do your ideas for garment-making emerge?

I am always searching for ideas. When creating a collection, I build it around a mood board, and each time, the muse I envision and the type of woman I am drawn to shifts slightly. That becomes the tone of the collection.

It is less about dramatic change and more about an accumulation—an extension of what has come before. The areas I love continue to broaden and deepen. Since long ago, I have often been drawn to women who carry a certain sense of humidity—rather than bright, exuberant types, I am captivated by those who possess a hint of shadow or depth. The allure found within that ambiguity and nuance may well be the source of my creative inspiration.

—— While FETICO maintains a consistent vision of womanhood, it continues to deliver fresh designs. Amid your busy days, do you create moments to switch between your creative self and your private self, intentionally stepping away from work?

In daily life, work and living are completely intertwined, and it can be difficult to separate them. That is why traveling serves as a form of reset for me. Even if I bring my laptop, there are times when I deliberately choose not to open it. Consciously changing my environment can be important.

I am not always able to take a long holiday—perhaps once a year at most—so I often decide spontaneously to take short one- or two-night trips. I also make time for the gym and Pilates. Facing training with nothing but my own body allows me to step away from work, even if only briefly.

—— As expected. To wear FETICO, body conditioning must be essential, after all.

Not at all. Of course, Pilates feels good to practice, but I also go in part to observe my instructor’s physique (laughs). The beauty of the human body—especially a woman’s body—truly moves me. A ballerina’s body, for example, is delicate, yet thoroughly trained throughout.

Beyond innate beauty, I feel greater value in what has been achieved through effort. It is not only exercise—those who care for themselves through what they eat and how they spend their days possess a particular beauty.

—— Accepting yourself as you are, loving yourself, and savoring life. This feels like an episode that offers a glimpse into the philosophy FETICO expresses through clothing. Are there themes you have yet to explore, or challenges you would like to take on in the future?

There are many. Not every season, but some show pieces are created through a couture-like approach. They require considerable time and labor, yet the sense of exhilaration and emotion upon completion is immense. As long as time and resources allow, I would like to continue pursuing such expressions.

Garment-making is truly profound. Watching a tailor friend at work, I am inspired by techniques and philosophies that differ from prêt-à-porter. If there are lessons to be learned from those fields, I would also like to explore possibilities for collaboration. Additionally, I hope to visit more factories throughout Japan, to witness the backgrounds of craftsmanship with my own eyes.

—— It sounds as though you will only grow busier. In the midst of that, FETICO will hold a pop-up at Shibuya PARCO starting March 11 (Wed.). What meaning does it hold to present your work in this location?

This will be our first standalone pop-up in Shibuya. Until now, we have presented within select shops and regularly held pop-ups at Isetan Shinjuku, but having a space that is not shop-in-shop—where we can express the brand’s world as a single environment—brings new meaning.

Shibuya PARCO is a place where not only those who already support FETICO gather, but also where encounters occur naturally as visitors move between various brands. I hope it becomes an opportunity to meet people who know of FETICO but have not yet experienced it firsthand. I would also be delighted if it becomes a new point of contact for visitors to Tokyo from abroad.

—— Do you have any personal memories or impressions of Shibuya or Shibuya PARCO?

I attended high school in Ebisu, so I often visited Shibuya. My usual route was to walk up Spain-zaka, stop by Shibuya PARCO, and then continue on to Harajuku. I would not say I have particularly intense memories, but it was a place that naturally existed within my daily life.

At the time, Shibuya PARCO was divided into Parts 1 through 3, and my favorite was Part 2, which housed more mode-oriented and slightly avant-garde shops. I would also visit the museum and cinema, actively engaging with culture. Shibuya was a gathering place for fashion lovers, and for my younger self, it was a very comfortable town.

—— We hear that this pop-up will communicate the brand’s worldview. Unlike a conventional “place to sell things,” what kind of design are you envisioning as a space that offers an experience?

As the space is limited, we will not display the entire collection at once. Instead, we plan to focus on signature bodysuits and innerwear, along with items that coordinate easily with denim—core wardrobe pieces that represent the brand.

For accessories, we will offer a wide range, from new Spring/Summer items to archive pieces, creating an approachable entry point even for those who have never worn FETICO before. We will also present a photo book documenting the backstage of our show, in hopes of conveying the unique atmosphere and vision of womanhood that FETICO portrays.

The photo book is newly shot by Kiyoe Ozawa and can be considered an art book, with careful attention paid to the texture of the paper and its size. I would be delighted if it could be enjoyed not only by fashion enthusiasts but also by those interested in art and hair and makeup.

—— In conveying the brand’s worldview, are there particular details you are attentive to in the interior design of the pop-up?

We are currently in the planning stage, but I would like it to be a space where visitors can slowly and thoughtfully engage with clothing and fashion. I am considering incorporating elements reminiscent of a closet.

The more basic the item, the more carefully I want to select something that feels truly comfortable. Many of the pieces featured this time use original or specially commissioned materials, produced in Japan.

We have also expanded our range of accessories because I believe that simply changing a bag or pair of shoes can dramatically transform an entire look. I hope visitors will imagine their own wardrobes as they try different combinations.

—— Finally, how would you like visitors to enjoy this pop-up?

I feel that the vision of womanhood FETICO portrays is rather distinctive. Through the space of this pop-up, I hope visitors can sense that worldview, even if only slightly.

As I mentioned earlier, Shibuya PARCO is a place where many people circulate freely and can drop by casually. Even if it is simply to browse through the photo book, I would be very happy if people felt comfortable stopping in without hesitation.

Information

FETICO POP UP STORE

Venue
1F POP UP SPACE「ARCADE」

Dates
March 11 (Wed.) - March
22 (Sun.), 2026

Details
https://shibuya-parco.work/event/detail/?id=8505